So after weeks of fruitless searching while site after site posts gloaty reviews of DC Universe Classics Series 10, you give up on ever finding that boobalicious new Power Girl figure. But then, just days before Christmas, you stroll down the toy aisle at the local Walmart and there she is! Sure, she doesn't look nearly as great in person with her spindly limbs and tiny fists, freakishly slim side profile, and huge mold line that's possibly a small gap down the side of her thigh... and that $12.97 price tag isn't helping. Nevertheless, for one or two heaving reasons, you decide to bite the bullet and buy the figure that you'd coveted for weeks on end and begrudgingly cursed your fellow collectors for displaying even after you'd accepted the reality that you would never own it.

And then you get her home and she seems even less appealing out of the package. Why the flip is she so darned skinny? What's up with her boots -- did they accidentally swap the left and right boots at the factory? Who the hell is she supposed to be punching out with those teensy fists? And why doesn't her bloody neck have much range beyond that of a swivel joint?

But wait. You've seen threads on TheFwoosh that discuss how to increase the range of the neck joint on recent DCUC figures, haven't you? You pop into the Custom Shop Talk section and soon locate the appropriate tutorial thread, and then -- although the poster suggests that this mod won't work for females with additional length behind the hair -- you examine Power Girl's head and determine that you could definitely increase her mobility. You plug in your hairdryer, pull out your rotary grinding tool, and get to work...

...and voilà! Not 20 minutes later, your Power Girl is raising her tiny fist to the heavens and lifting her gaze skyward. And now, inexplicably, you love her.

Congratulations! You have entered the world of action figure modification.

As you can imagine, there are various reasons that one wouldn't want to proceed down this path. The first is that thing that deters us from so many courses in life: fear. In this case, we're talking about fear that you're going to screw something up. And while that is a possibility, the good thing about many modifications is that they're simple and largely invisible -- even if you manage to screw them up, they're in a hidden area of the figure that would be impossible for the average viewer to detect. For instance, say I had failed to add mobility to Power Girl's neck -- but, because my hand slipped, I accidentally scraped off all of the paint and left a huge gash on the underside of her head. (I didn't... at least not accidentally.) Although that might be readily apparent when her noggin's still detached, once Kara's head is back in place this area will be almost completely hidden. So unless you're dealing with really complex and/or highly visible modifications -- which arguably tread closer to full-blown customization than the simple stuff I'm talking about -- you shouldn't worry too much!

Another reason you might not want to start grinding into your figures is because you want to keep them as close to "factory-release" condition as possible. Perhaps you're invested in the value of your collection -- and while you're not so committed to the possibility of selling your figures that you'll keep them carded, you don't want to further diminish their value by grinding into their tiny skulls and limbs (even if potential buyers would likely fail to spot any changes). You're probably right about this, though on the other hand you'll likely find a small number of folks out there who would be more interested in a modded figure than a plain old loose one. After all, the modded figure can do things that a regular one can't, and any collector who'll deign to buy a loose figure probably plans to spend some time posing it. These figures might also appeal to customizers, as any modifications you've made -- no matter how simple -- could make their work that much easier.

And then there's another reason related to fear -- not fear that you'll screw up, but fear that modding figures will lead to the very time-consuming and potentially expensive hobby of action figure customization. And while the other reasons weren't without merit, this one's probably the most legitimate reason not to take the plunge. I'm still very much a novice customizer and haven't undertaken any extensive modifications outside of custom projects, but somehow modifying figures in small ways has imbued me with the confidence to make even greater changes. Now, when I see a figure with imperfections, I'm always thinking of ways I might improve it even if I don't implement my ideas. When I see a figure that might easily become something else, my mind starts brewing with custom plans. Yet while pursuing these activities might eventually drive me even further from the realm of social normalcy, I'd much rather plunk down $7 for a fodder figure or two than for a whiskey sour -- and finally finishing my custom Shredder figure will fill me with more satisfaction than making out with some drunk chick at the bar ever could (unless she's really, really, really hot and has blue hair).

And that's really the main reason to modify a figure: satisfaction. I admittedly don't set out to modify every figure I buy and mostly make very small adjustments with the aid of online guides, but there's nevertheless something I find immensely satisfying about modding a figure. It was actually fixing broken figures that first motivated me to take up modifying them -- and while fixing a broken one can be satisfying too, in those cases I'm correcting someone else's blunder, shoddy craftsmanship, and so forth. With mods, I get to fly in the face of the old idiom "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" and improve upon mass-produced "perfection." I've never felt especially good about the greater accomplishments in my life -- probably because I recognize that they've meant far less than the weight attributed to them by others -- but somehow giving a little plastic mutant the ability to look down at a tiny enemy robot makes me beam.

If you'd like to start feeling that action figure modification glow, here are a few simple mods that you can try at home! You'll need a few things before you get started, though:

• A portable hairdryer -- or a microwave-safe tupperware container, water, and a microwave
• A rotary sanding tool -- or sandpaper and a lot of patience
• a razor blade or hobby knife

Increasing the range of ball-jointed necks

This tutorial will tell you specifically how to do this for DCUC figures, but you can similarly augment the mobility of a lot of figures with poorly-designed ball-jointed necks. To tell if you'll be able to do this with a given figure, take a good look at the neck to see what's limiting its motion. If it's stopped by the back of the figure's head, stop (unless you want to remove some of the figure's hairline in back, which is an option). But if the neck is limited by excess plastic inside the bottom of the head, you've got a great candidate for this modification.

First, you'll want to remove the head. If you've got a hairdryer, blast the head on the hottest setting for 70-90 seconds and then gently (but firmly) yank the head off. If you don't have a hairdryer or have a particularly stubborn head, you'll want to use the boil and pop method. Fill your tupperware container with water (you don't need to fill it to the top; just make sure you have enough to fully submerge the head) and stick it in the microwave for 3-5 minutes. DO NOT MICROWAVE ANY PART OF YOUR FIGURE -- JUST THE CONTAINER AND WATER. Once that's done, dunk your figure headfirst into the hot water and leave it there for a minute or so. After that point, the plastic should be soft enough for you to pull the head right off.

Once you've done that, dried the head off, and allowed it to cool (it shouldn't take long), you just grab your rotary sanding tool or sandpaper and start sanding away the excess plastic that limited the head's motion. You can even widen the area where the thinner portion of the neck barbell will go to increase the head's mobility -- just try not to stray into the cavity that houses the ball or you'll end up with a bobbleheaded figure. (Fortunately, if you do end up doing this, coating the ball with a bit of clear nail polish or white glue will tighten the joint right back up. You can also use superglue, but nail polish and white glue can simply be scraped off if you put too much on and won't ruin your figure if you don't let it dry completely before replacing the head. It's also worth noting that some DCUC figures will end up slightly bobbleheaded anyway because the hole in the neck itself is wider than the post sticking out. It's nothing serious, though.)

For figures like the Ninja Turtles, where the heads are oddly shaped and have undersides that are largely hidden, you can even go beyond the standard area of the hole in order to further increase the range of the neck joint. Similarly, since Power Girl's hair hides the back of her head (except above, where I've hunched her over and angled the head to show you), you can cut away part of the base of her skull to allow her to look even higher. If you're doing this, however, you'll want to warm the plastic slightly before doing so -- whereas it's easier to sand cool, hard plastic, you'll find it easier to cut with your knife or razor blade when it's warm.

Once you're finished, heat the head back up using your preferred method and pop it back on. Voilà! Or, if you find that the neck is still largely restricted, pop the head back off and keep at it. By removing the plastic, you're aiming to increase the head's ability to tilt in any direction -- which will increase the figure's ability not only to look up and down, but also to tilt its head left or right. And don't be put off by the visibility of the ball joint in some poses! While the joint will be visible as a matter of necessity when you have the figure looking way up, it'll remain hidden in less dramatic poses.

Anyway, once you've done a couple of these, you'll fully understand the mechanics... and then you can set about ensuring that your recent DCUC figures will never miss another full moon!

Converting Playmates Terminator Salvation endoskeleton elbow hinges to swivel-hinges

This mod actually works with a lot of Playmates figures -- for some inexplicable reason, the company loves square pegs -- but it works best with the 6" Terminator Salvation endoskeletons. First, using the hairdryer method or the boil and pop method, separate the forearm piece from the bicep -- there's a peg in the elbow that plugs into the upper arm. Now, you see that square peg? You want to sand away the corners so that you end up with a round peg, which will enable you to swivel the arm at that point. You can use a rotary tool or sandpaper for this, but I actually prefer using the latter here. Tear off a piece of sandpaper large enough to wrap tightly around the square peg -- and once you've done that, just start twisting the arm so that the peg rubs against the sandpaper and checking periodically to view your progress. After about a minute or two of twisting (depending upon how rough your sandpaper is), you should have taken the peg down enough to facilitate a smooth turn -- but if, upon replacing the arm, you find that it still doesn't turn easily, just pop it back off and sand it down some more. Before long, your endoskeletons will be zombie-stalking and dealing out two-handed overhead pipe smashes like nobody's business!

Augmenting rocker ankle motion

If you get a figure with limited rocker ankle motion -- like DCUC figures, some Marvel Legends, and even MOTUC figures -- this mod will allow you to increase their ability to take wide stances while keeping their feet flat on the floor. To get a better idea of how it works, grab a figure with fairly effective old-style rocker ankles, like Urban Legends Elektra or Spider-Man. See how there's space around the ankle peg that allows the foot to move left and right more effectively? That's what you want to create.

Using your preferred method, pop the foot off of the ankle post (you shouldn't be mucking around with the pin here). Once you've done that, grab your rotary sanding tool and sand the area at the top of the foot down in order to create more room for the ankle to pivot. Given that your figure's feet will probably end up tilted inwards in poses, you want to concentrate on the interior side of the foot. Also, if it looks like the width of the peg hole in is also so small that it will restrict this motion, use a hobby knife or razor blade (or your sanding tool, if you've got attachments that work well for this purpose) to widen it. Take care, however, not to sand too far down into the peg cavity or to cut too close to the sides of the foot!

Once you think you've created enough space, pop the foot back on and test the motion of the improved rocker ankle. Sometimes, due to asymmetries in the figure or other inexplicable reasons, you'll need to remove more plastic from one foot in order to get the same range out of the ankle -- and sometimes you'll even need to trim the ankle (below the pin). Note also that this modification will widen the gap between the bottom of the ankle and the foot piece itself, so you shouldn't do this if you think that looks hideous! If you can tolerate it, though, your figures will benefit from slightly increased poseability and be freed of the burden of standing on the edges of their feet. My work-in-progress custom Shredder, for example, uses the lower legs from X-Men Classics Magneto. The original figure's ankles were fairly restricted, but now he can get into wider stances for ninja action poses!

Transforming (ha!) Transformers' spring-loaded waists to waist swivels

I actually think that "punching action" fueled by spring-loaded waists is among the better action features a toy can have -- it's fun for kids and doesn't significantly interfere with articulation or mar sculpts by requiring giant buttons or levers. That said, many of us would rather simply have a swivel joint at the waist, so here's how you can go about making that change!

This mod's really intuitive. First, scrounge up a relatively small Phillips-style screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers in addition to your grinding/sanding tools. Next, remove the screws on the Transformer's pelvis (remember what goes where) and split the halves. In most cases, you'll see the spring right away, and there'll be a little piece on the end that you can grab with your pliers. Do so and firmly (but not violently; you don't want wire flying at your eyes) pull that sucker out. Note that sometimes you won't even need to do this. With Megatron, for example, the spring was held in place by the pelvis alone -- such that gravity was sufficient to remove it once I unscrewed and separated the halves of the crotch.

You could stop here, but figures with spring-loaded waists usually have some limiting factor to keep you from turning too far in one direction or the other -- so you'll probably want to look at how the waist fits into the pelvis to see where the joint's limiting factors are. Usually there'll be a notch on the piece that connects to the crotch itself and/or a tab inside the crotchpiece. Grind, cut, or sand the limiting agents away to give your figure a waist that swivels a full 360 degrees (kibble limitations notwithstanding)!

If the joint seems a bit loose -- which it probably will; it was originally designed to swing freely -- you can tighten it up by adding some superglue or clear nail polish to the tops of the pelvis pieces (the underside of the tops will also work in many cases) to increase the friction between the parts. If you use superglue, however, it is imperative that you do this while the pieces are still detached and before you reassemble your figure, if only because you don't want to accidentally glue the assembly together. (Who knows; you might find yourself wanting to go back in there again!) Once that's done and you've ensured that everything's working properly by test fitting the parts, go ahead and replace the screws. Great work, Autobot!

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